Howtown Hotel again?

Today was a much better. A day for walking. We decided to walk to the top of the big hill on the other side of the valley called Place Fell. We had walked near it several times. We walked over the same path to Boredale Hause and instead of turning right for High Street and Coast to coast we turned left up Place Fell. Luckily for us it was very windy and in the right direction which helped us climb to the summit at 2154 foot. It was really steep all the way up with bit of scrambling near the top. It was a full gale on the top but it gave wide views up Deepdale, over toward Kidsty Pike, across the valley the Hellvelyn range and down the valley to Penrith and the Eden valley beyond.
H introducing Glenridding in the valley bottom on the shores Ullswater.

Having taken in the view and took a few photos we then wandered downhill off Place Fell mainly to get out of the gale. We found a likely spot and had lunch overlooking Ullswater. Our next target was Howtown. Howtown and the Hotel of the same name are a couple of miles apart. Getting off the fellside down to Howtown was tiresome. A mile or so of very steep grassy hillside. the path was not much worn and with all the recent rain was very slippy. The Pooley bridge folk don't climb up the fells, they stroll by the water side path. We made it down without mishap. Howtown is just a few houses and a farm. We had decided that if all went well i.e. made good time, we would treat ourselve to a ride back to Glenridding on the steamer. We made good time and had time to spare so we walked up to the Howtown Hotel, round the back to the Walkers bar and had a large Sherry for me and a half a bitter for H. We sat in the garden enjoying the hot sun. As we were finishing up a couple of Geordie families turned up. It is not a big garden so there was lots of stepping on toes, excuse me, squeezing past, sorry pet, what you having and Darren get off that. Darren was about ten and ready for mischief. Within seconds of turning up he was already at the top ornimental rockery, the one that says "keep off, loose and slippy rocks" just past the sign that said "private garden". As I returned the our glasses and fat lass bellowed in my ear because I did not exist and her beloved was at least twenty foot away "They don't have Strongbow on draft pet" and to her dog at her feet, but still above the ring in my ears "where has he brought us". The place that "He" had took her obviously did not measure up.

H and I wandered over to the Ullswater Steamer landing stage just a short walk from the Howtown Hotel. As we got close we heard the tanoy of the steamer relaying safety messages. We quickened our step and were in plenty of time to join the back of the queue. We paid our tickets and settled down to enjoy the ride. As I sat down the tanoy explained they had a bar on board and as I looked about I saw that we were just by the companion way. As soon as the Raven slipped her mooring H and I took in their board of fair in the Saloon. We had a couple of Gin & Tonics and repaired to upper decks to enjoy the cruise. The ride back to Glenridding only took half an hour but it was most enjoyable. We had a nice chat about nothing in particular with a crew member on the way back. As we have loads of time in hand we hung about to see the Raven depart. A representative of every colour and creed got on that boat. I was sure something biblical was going to happen. As SS Raven slipped her moorings the new skipper set off but at the expense of some of the pilings. He bumped the boat on docking and ground the bulwarks on the way out. The boat won't last another hundred years with that sort of treatment. The chap we had been talking too just raised his eyes to the sky, shook his head and coiled down the ropes. Click HERE for info on the Ullswater Steamers.


We took a walk about Glenridding and found the famous climber pub The Traveller's Rest. It is very small and is known for good food and drink and often has live music. But it only holds about fifty people so it get packed really quickly and the wait for food or drink can be way too long. We got a couple of beers and sat out in the sun and people watched. It is a good spot for two reasons:

A. It is on a steep hill so getting in and out of the car park requires close control so it is good value watching to old dears doing hundred point turns, on the hill, with on audience.
B. It is on the path that leads to Hellvelyn. At this time of the evening everyone is coming down in various states of distress.

One crew of professional types had legged it down the mountain leaving their mate behind much to their amusement but he had all the cash. So no money for beer and The Traveller's don't do credit. After a loud "discussion" in the car park they decided to ring him. Glenriding is not Knightsbridge....no signal. Crest fallen they had to sit there waiting for their buddy. To add insult to injury they were shoo'd off the benches by folks who had cash to purchase a pint of the landlord best at the bar. When we left they were still sat there like a couple of sheep dogs waiting there master's footsteps on the drive. In all a splendid day however it was a long slog back to Deepdale from Glenriding. Drink just takes all the energy out of my legs. Still, I was very relaxed.